Original Boat Street Café owner Susan Kaplan handed this recipe down to me when I took the reins, and although it’s changed over the years, it’s still a favorite.
The method is a bit unusual: I dress unpeeled juicy peaches with lemon zest, then smear the batter on top, followed by a dousing of sugar and a bit of hot water. The result is a delicate crackly crust unrivaled in the world of cobblers. Use the same crust to top summer berries, if you prefer.
1 hour 40 Minutes
10 large peaches (about 4½ pounds), unpeeled, cut into 1-inch chunks
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sugar, divided
1½ cups (about 192 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup whole milk
½ cup hot tap water
Heavy cream, for serving
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Put the peaches in a 9-by-13-inch (or similar) baking pan or gratin dish. Pat the peaches into a roughly even layer, then, using a zester or a Microplane, zest the lemon evenly over the fruit and squeeze the lemon juice evenly over the top.
In the work bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and 1½ cups of the sugar on medium speed until sandy, about 1 minute. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt, and beat again for another 30 seconds, until all the flour is incorporated and the mixture is evenly crumbly. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add in the milk. Increase the speed to medium and beat until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
Plop the batter in 6 large blobs over the top of the peaches. With an offset spatula or small knife, carefully spread the batter evenly over the fruit, so it’s no more than about ½ inch thick in any one place.
Sprinkle the remaining ½ cup sugar directly over the batter. Drizzle the hot water evenly over the sugar, using it to melt the sugar into the topping. (Use it all. It’s a strange method, but it works.)
Bake the cobbler for 70 to 80 minutes, or until the top is browned and cracked. (A toothpick inserted into the topping should come out dry—be sure to check in a few places.)
Let the cobbler sit for about a half an hour to firm up before serving warm in big bowls, with heavy cream poured on top.
In this classic Italian American sandwich, tender meatballs drenched in tomato sauce are tucked into crisp rolls then buried under a blanket of gooey cheese.
It’s a messy sandwich no matter how you build it or bite into it, but wise construction can help: First, hollow out the rolls a bit so the meatballs have a place to sit. Then, use the leftover crumbs to make the meatballs, which will keep them light. Finally, toast the rolls to prevent them from getting too soggy with sauce. Of course, some crispy-gone-soggy bites are welcome, just as the cheese pulls, sauce drips and messy fingers are, too. They’re all part of the experience.
Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
4(6-inch-long) sub, hero or hoagie rolls, split lengthwise but still attached on one side
Kosher salt and black pepper
2garlic cloves, peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing
1pound ground beef (at least 15 percent fat)
½cup finely grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
2tablespoons chopped basil leaves, plus more for serving
2cups marinara sauce (homemade or from a 24-ounce jar)
4slices mozzarella or provolone
Heat the broiler to high with a rack no more than 6 inches from the heat source. (See Tip if you don’t have a broiler.) Using a fork, scrape out some of the interior of the rolls until you get about 1 cup bread crumbs. Add them to a large bowl along with 1/2 cup water, the egg, 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Finely grate 1 garlic clove into the mixture, then stir to combine. Let sit for 5 minutes.
Lightly grease a large (12-inch), oven-proof skillet with olive oil. To the bread crumbs, add the beef, Parmesan and chopped basil. Stir with your hands until combined, avoiding overmixing. Roll into 12 balls (about 2 heaping tablespoons/2 ounces each) and place them in the prepared skillet as you go. Broil the meatballs until browned and nearly cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes.
Move the skillet to the stovetop. Add the marinara sauce, stir to coat the meatballs, and warm over medium-low heat while you toast the rolls: Place the rolls on a baking sheet, cut-side up, and broil until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Rub the cut sides of the roll with the second garlic clove.
Divide the meatballs and sauce among the rolls, then top with mozzarella. Broil until the mozzarella is melted and browned in spots, 1 to 2 minutes. Top with more grated Parmesan, basil leaves and black pepper.
If you don’t have a broiler, you can make this recipe using a 450-degree oven. The meatballs will take about 15 minutes to cook through (or you can sear them on the stove), and the bread-toasting and cheese-melting will take 2 to 4 minutes each.
It will come as no surprise to market watchers, and especially buyers, that lack of inventory in Nevada County continues. We see conditions nationally mirror Nevada County. Numbers are consistent with previous months. 359 houses for sale March 2020 vs 166 houses for sale March 2021, 53.8% lower year to year. Houses sold are up 21.5%, 156 Mar last year, 123 houses sold this January.
Inventory reduction is from 2.9 months of inventory last January to 1.2 months of inventory this January, down 58,2%. A VERY, VERY STRONGSELLER’S MARKET continues, especially considering Nevada County’s attractiveness as one of the premier work-from-home communities.
The average SOLD price per square foot is up 21.9% year to year ($236 vs $293). Average price sold is up 14.6%, from $472,000 to $608,000 up 28.5%. Higher list prices continue, driven by lack of inventory.
Nevada County continues to be strongly attractive to buyers looking for safer havens, especially coupled with the myriad lifestyle opportunities and community connections the foothills offer. Days on market has fallen 24%, from 62 days last March to 54 days in March this year. Buyers are energized to immediately jump on good, well-priced houses especially given our current low inventory environment.
Buyer activity continues to be robust, with multiple offers often over ask.
Don’t hesitate to call us for evaluations of your home’s value or to tour homes on the market you have interest in. We are here for you, and Alisa (almost) always answers her cell phone, 530-559-4871.
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
This bright, herby, fresh-tasting salad makes a very nice accompaniment to a pan-fried breaded pork chop. Cooked beets (preferably golden) thinly sliced radishes, celery and turnips are dressed, then tossed with a mixture of zesty salad greens — use a combination of watercress, dandelion, curly endive, escarole, radicchio, mizuna, spinach, or red sorrel leaves. The components can be prepared in advance, but wait until the last minute before dressing and serving.
Heami Lee for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas.
Basically a vegetable-studded potato salad with mayonnaise, Russian salad is hugely popular all over the world for family gatherings and festive events. It’s a beloved, traditional party dish riffed on almost everywhere but my own home: I’d only ever seen pasty, congealed versions I would never wish to eat until I tried this one from Vladimir Ocokoljic, served at his Serbian restaurant Kafana in New York City. While not quite as demanding as his aunt back in Belgrade, who used to slice even the peas in half, Mr. Ocokoljic insists on the tiny dice (each ingredient should match the size of a pea) and emphatically dislikes any sweet pickles (only gherkins or cornichons are a fit), making the finished dish delicate, luscious and savory. Whisking pickle brine into the mayonnaise creates a liquidy slurry, loose enough to dress the salad without its becoming smushed and gluey. —Gabrielle Hamilton
Kosher salt and black pepper
3medium yellow potatoes (about 1 pound), washed
5thin carrots (about 1/2 pound), washed
10ounces frozen peas
4large eggs, fridge-cold
3 ½ounces boiled ham
1cup drained cornichons and 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of their brine
1scant cup Hellmann’s mayonnaise
Bring a large pot of water to boil. Season with salt.
Add whole potatoes to the boiling water, and cook 15 minutes. Add whole carrots to the cooking potatoes, and cook both another 10 minutes. Remove potatoes and carrots with a spider when easily pierced with a cake tester or a very thin knife blade, and set aside in a bowl.
Add frozen peas to boiling water, and using the spider, remove them to a separate bowl as they float, until all peas have floated and been transferred to the bowl.
Gently add the eggs, and allow to boil 10 minutes.
While the eggs cook, peel the potatoes and carrots under cold running water by rubbing them gently with your fingers. Rinse the peas under cold running water to cool.
Once the eggs are cooked, drain them, and peel under cold running water.
Neatly dice the potatoes, carrots, ham, eggs and cornichons to the same approximate (and rather small) size as the peas, aiming for uniformity. Gently toss them all together in a large bowl.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise with the cornichon brine, and pour over the salad. Toss gently with rubber spatula or using your fingers until the salad is well coated. Season with several hearty grinds of black pepper.
Halloween is a-comin’. We are a little sad that Covid has changed the trick-or-treat fun this year, but that doesn’t mean we can’t have fun in the kitchen!…here’s a good pumpkin recipe from our friends at King Arthur Baking. (We’re suddenly hungry ☺)
1 cup (227g) pumpkin or squash purée
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons to 1/4 cup (28g to 57g) lukewarm water*
Sprinkle with crystallized ginger or dried fruit (or both), if desired.
Starting with the short end that’s covered with filling, roll the dough into a log.
Cut the log into 9 rolls (1 1/2″ slices).
Place the rolls into a lightly greased 9″ x 9″ square pan that’s at least 2″ deep (or equivalent). Set aside, covered, to rise for 1 hour, or until the rolls look puffy.
Bake the rolls in a preheated 375°F oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until they’re lightly browned and feel set. Remove the pan from the oven, turn the rolls out of the pan, and allow them to cool for about 15 minutes. Toward the end of the cooling time, make the glaze.
To make the glaze: Heat the butter and milk together until the butter melts. Whisk into the sugar.
Drizzle the warm rolls with the warm glaze. Sprinkle with chopped nuts, if desired.
Store any leftovers, well wrapped, at room temperature for a couple of days; freeze for longer storage.
Tips from our Bakers
Adjust the amount of water by the time of year or your climate. For summer, or in a humid environment, use the lesser amount of water. In winter, or in a dry climate, use the greater amount. It’s always best to start with the lesser amount; you can always add more, but once it’s in you can’t add less!
Substitute 3/4 cup granulated sugar + 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon for the Baker’s Cinnamon Filling and water, if desired. If you use sugar and cinnamon, DO NOT ADD THE WATER called for in the recipe.
For a topping that stays white and remains on top of the rolls rather than partially melting in, allow the rolls to cool completely before glazing.
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Save those wider-than-tall, about-to-burst tomatoes for slicing and showering with flaky sea salt. For this recipe, you want smaller, sturdier varieties like kumato, Campari or petite heirlooms. Brushing the uncooked puff pastry with crème fraîche adds a subtle tanginess that you won’t necessarily notice, but the tomatoes will taste better for it. You might be tempted to skip salting your tomatoes, but don’t: It helps prevent a soggy crust while intensifying the flavor of your tomatoes. This tart is best enjoyed straight out of the oven, at its flaky prime, but it’s also great at room temperature, or even cold, devoured directly from the fridge.
4small, multicolored tomatoes, such as heirloom, kumato or Campari (about 12 ounces total), sliced crosswise 1/4-inch thick
Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. Set the sliced tomatoes on top in a single layer. In a small bowl, combine 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Use it to season the tomatoes evenly on both sides, cover with another paper towel and let sit, 15 minutes, allowing the salt to draw moisture out of the tomatoes.
As the tomatoes sit, heat the oven to 400 degrees and set a rack in the middle of the oven. Working on a large sheet of parchment paper, roll out the puff pastry into a 9-by-11-inch rectangle, trimming any uneven edges. Prick the inside with a fork every few inches, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Using a pastry brush, coat the center of the puff pastry with the crème fraîche, leaving the border unbrushed.
Working within the border, layer the tomatoes and red onion on top of the tart, allowing them to overlap slightly. Transfer to a sheet pan and bake, rotating halfway through, until puff pastry is browned and puffed, 30 to 35 minutes.
Sprinkle tomatoes with Aleppo pepper, if using. Dollop with fresh ricotta. Thin pesto with olive oil until it reaches the proper consistency for drizzling; drizzle on top of tart to taste. Top with basil, if using, and serve warm or at room temperature.